Installing new brake lines still smells a little craft, which is probably just else is in body work the case. In any case, you need tools: tube cutter, deburring and beading. The is also available in a set with large price differences for professional equipment, but can be worthwhile, as you can see in the video below.

The rigid brake pipes are usually made of plastic coated steel with 4.5 mm outer diameter at one millimeter wall thickness. Easier to work with is an alloy of copper, nickel and iron commonly used for classic cars. Here it is advisable to compare planed realization with inspection rules.

Also maybe sets of pipes could still be available as spare parts and possibly even cheaper than buying tools and materials. If you want to bend the pipes by yourself, you better take the old ones as models. Flanges are marked with letters and can e.g. be molded convex, concave, and even both.

Of course, both union nuts must be pushed onto the pipe before the second flanging. It may come in contact with body parts only at the attachment points and protected by rubber liners. Too small bending radii are not allowed. Fittings must be tightened according to the manufacturer, of course (otherwise about 25 Nm).

Brake hoses are made from rubber inside and outside and two layers of rayon in between. From racing hoses with Stahlflex sheathing are adopted. They aught to have a more distinctive pressure point, but must additionally undergo an official inspection. However, they undermining the originality of classic cars.

Hoses must be mounted without any rotational tension. Here lots of tests are necessary. Especially the front axle with all possible steering angles and loads. Please avoid also harmless-looking chafing. Brake hoses can incidentally be remade by specialized companies with large variability of end pieces in almost any length. 03/16